Bogotá, Colombia. August 29, 2008
Ma and I got a double room at Bogotá's Platypus Hotel and sighed. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the hotel using the internet, showering with HOT water, and resting our minds. There was a pizza party that night in birthday celebration, but after that we went out to find some more dinner. I've noticed that people in Colombia eat large breakfasts and lunches, but skimp on dinner. Nothing but fastfood joints was open past 8pm. So we got a few arepas and ate them on the way back to the hotel.
We had one day to see Bogotá together. So we got up super early and began our day by walking around Plaza de Periodistas and the merchants row, as I call it. We tried to bargain, but they held to their prices. No deals were reached. Next we walked along the wide Transmilenio-only streets.
We passed another cluster of crafts booths. I bargained for some awesome orange earrings. We peeked into the big church on our right before turning left towards Plaza Bolívar. The plaza was teeming with people. I tried my hand again at the panorama feature on the camera, but I just can’t seem to get the hang of it.
We had our desayuno at a small restaurant in La Candaleria. Mmmm… And I surprised myself by ordering a hot chocolate. They got creative and added all sorts of spices to it that I wasn’t able to identify, but it was good. We kept walking up and down cobble stone streets until we came to a flight of stairs. Then came the question: climb the stairs or turn around and try another street. I don’t like to backtrack and I guess neither does mom, so up the stairs we went. And around the corner. 
I asked a street vendor if we could climb up to Monserrate from there, but he told us to watch ourselves because it would be dangerous. He told us not to take pictures if there were sketchy people around. Fair enough. We braved it. We ended up walking along major roads until we got to the base of the mountain. The altitude was noticeable. We decided to take the telefreq up instead of walking.
What a spectacular view! Up up up we climbed and my ears popped in acknowledgment. But we could see forever! At the top, we entered the church, sat a while to catch our breath, and then took off. We descended on foot. The steps were steep and uneven. The view and altitude took our breaths away. Red-faced families passed us on their way up. Handmade signs announced the 13 stations that Jesus took. At each one there was a group that prayed. People were reciting bible passages as they climbed. It was not a journey for the uncommitted.
Vendors called after us: aguita, refrescos, queso y bocadillo (which is apparently not at all like the bocadillos in Spain, but rather like membrillo), religious wear, and fresh fruit. Heading down was tough. Watch your step!
At the bottom of the mountain we celebrated by getting some corn. The kernals were huge and slightly charred, but oh so good! Mom and I munched it as we walked through an unknown part of the city. We walked by parks and stores and groups of teenagers just hanging out. We walked and walked enjoying the lovely day until we stumbled on some familiar landmarks. We had accidentally walked straight back to the hotel! But good thing we did because we were tired and a little sun burnt from the morning’s wanderings. A descanso was in order.People here don’t tend to eat much for dinner. All the restaurants close around 5 or 6pm
and all that is left is fast food outlets with empanadas, buñuelos, or arepas to go. We left in search of a good dinner and were disappointed with what we found, until… the guy at the Italian restaurant told just to check out La Macarena. Yes, it’s a dance, but it’s a great place too! For more info let your eyes glide down to the Food Highlights.We make it an early night because in the morning our taxi for the airport leaves at 5:30am! Good night indeed!
We wake up before the sun. Everything gets packed and I leave my stuff in the lobby just in case I don’t make it back before checkout time. The hotel staff advised us to get there 3 hours before the flight. 3 hours! I could never take THAT much time, could it?
Well, we are in Colombia after all and things never go as planned. We enter the airport and are amazed to see it packed. We get in line (whatever happened to self check-in?!) and as mom has her bags weighed, we are cut in line by an obnoxious couple. We cast them dirty looks and secretly laugh when they are sent back to get their tax exception form.
A sad goodbye. Thanks mom for coming out and spending your two week vacation with me! I hope it was as fun as you had hoped. And then some!
I returned sola to the hotel in a colectivo and was quite proud of myself for not getting lost. I noticed that on Sundays, many of the main roads are closed to motorized vehicles and bikers and pedestrians are let loose! How cool that such a large city takes active measures to improve the environment and health of its population.
Sundays are also fun because there is a huge fleemarket in the Plaza de Periodistas, right across the street from our hotel. I wandered around the odds and ends, but in the end I didn’t find anything to weigh my backpack down.
My next adventure was towards the Torre Colpatria from which I would be able to see a 360 degree view of Bogotá. Hardly had I gotten to Carrera 7, but the streets started to fill with people. Suddenly it was wall-to-wall people, which leads me to yet another reason why Bogotá is fabulous on Sundays. There was a full-grown street party that extended all the way past the Parque de la Independencia. 
Live music and subsequent dancing in the street! Vendors pushing carts with fresh fruit, ice cream, grilled corn on the cob, coconuts, fried plantain chips, empanadas, bocadillo… you name it! I waded through the crowds trying to be discreet while snapping photos.
I wandered into a flee market. There were whole pigs stuffed with rice, meat and spices. Yes, the head was still on. Beautifully decorated desserts. Crafts and a variety of knick knacks.
The mood was vibrant! Families were out and about. Everyone was in a great mood, relaxing and taking in the wonderful sights and sounds. I had gotten to the Torre when the parade started!
I had a bird’s eye view of all the colors and dancing! Bogotá expanded in all directions and you could see the people making the hike up to Monseratte.
By the time I made it back down to the street level, the parade hadn’t lost any energy! Floats glided by with dancers and people in costumes kept the rhythm of the band in their hips. The costumes were amazing!
But the storm clouds rolled in and, yes, it did rain on the parade. And it wasn’t a light rain that passes in a few minutes.
I started the walk back to the hotel and was forced to stop and take refuge under awnings. The parade party never stopped. The floats kept coming. The rain drops were hefty and there was a chill in the air. By the time I got back to the hotel, I was sopping wet, which is highly unfortunate because my socks will never dry.My overnight bus for Popayán left around 7pm. I was excited to venture into the unknowns of Southern Colombia. The travel book had warned not to travel by night, but with my time constraints, I knew I had to. The bus ride turned into a nightmare as one thing after another went wrong.
Food Highlights:
Hey Macarena! It’s not only a famous 90s dance. You see, behind the street sign is a secret alley lined with grubby restaurants with plastic chairs and absolutely no tourists. I wouldn’t even call them restaurants because they’re hole-in-the-wall eateries. Exactly what we were looking for! I get a sopa de mute and mom gets a custom-made vegetarian plate and we are both so contentas
that we ask the waiter to be in the picture. The soup is fantastic, and filling! But I don’t know what to do with the huge chunk of bone in it. The ají is good here, pretty spicy! The whole deal was one almuerzo (how can one person eat so much!), which carried the comida corriente price. What a steal! Best kept secret ever! (until everyone reads this blog)
No comments:
Post a Comment