Sunday, September 21, 2008

A Political Interjection

Ecuador, like so many countries, is going through a period of political reformation. The story changes depending on who’s telling it and where they got their information, but here’s how I understand it:

Ecuador’s President, Rafael Correra Delgado, is proposing a rewrite of the constitution. This can mean lots of different things. According to some people in favor of this move, this reform is a well-needed change for the country that will move it in a more positive and progressive direction. Gone will be the government corruption that benefit the wealthy and in its place will be more social programs for the poorer populations who need it the most. Not only would primary education and health care be free, but it would also decrease the price of university. Individuals will have more rights under the new constitution, catered to the modern and changing times.

On the other hand, this leap can be seen as a bold Socialist move fueled by the anti-Capitalist rhetoric-spewing Hugo Chavez. The new constitution would increase the Presidential term to 10 years, which will make it harder to implement change in the future. The new constitution will no only be anti-USA, but also take away from the core traditionalist values ingrained in the deeply religious Ecuadorian public.

So what’s it gonna be: the conservative capitalistic old-politics traditionalists or the liberal socialistic new-politics reformers?! Stay tuned, the election will be on September 28!

Now in hopes of deterring those of you who will write me to complain of egregious errors in my political accounts… a brief disclaimer:

I have not done my research on the matter. I am not a political scientist. I am merely an observer who has talked to a few very opinionated people here in Ecuador. I don’t claim to fully understand the ins and outs of this very complicated election. And in the words of the smirking taxi driver here in Loja, “Who cares, the government has no control over anything anyway!” and then goes on to mutter something about delinquents.


So Loja, eh? I bet there’s a story in that journey.



As we were clearing up our breakfast dishes, a Loja-bound American traveler bounced in the kitchen. We decided to split a cab to the Terminal.



It only took me a few minutes to realize that I couldn’t stand this guy. His manner of speaking was nose-in-the-air and matter-of-fact. His tone and word choice made it clear that he was speaking the absolute truth and there would be no arguing against him. Taking that as a challenge, I argued against him. I realized that this was futile when it became evident that he was not listening to a word I was saying and when I was interrupted time and time again. I wanted nothing more to do with him, so I stared out the cab window quietly listening to his loud obnoxious rambling about how South Americans are animals who can’t govern themselves. His words not mine. I bit my lip to refrain from verbally ripping him apart.

In the bus station, we searched for buses to Loja. And as luck would have it there was one practically pulling out of the terminal. They held it long enough for us to jump aboard. Nate and I grabbed the front seats so that our bags rested nicely on the floor and not our laps. A chatty group of Israelis were right behind us. 5 hours.

A cloud descended on central Ecuador. Not metaphorically, but figuratively. The fog was so dense that we couldn’t see more than a few feet from the bus window! We drove through the mist for 5 hours stopping in local pueblos picking up school children and indigenous folks.

We pulled into Loja and said a wellneeded goodbye to our new American friend and caught a cab into el centro. The cab driver was friendly and chatty, but then left us on a random street. Good thing it was walking distance to a lot of hostels. We turned our backs on the nicer, more expensive ones and headed to Hotel Londres, a creeky floor, saggy bed, shared bathroom kind of deal. But we had a third floor room with great big doors that opened up onto Sucre street! No bad for the price and we decided to stay.



Perimeter walk. Got acquainted with the small streets with the smaller sidewalks. We hopped around Central Park and noticed an abundance of taxis.




Our next thought was food! We didn't have a roach-infested kitchen at our disposal to cook according to Nate's dietary requirements. So we took to the streets to find an appropriate restaurant. We found a vegetarian restaurant that had good intentions, but wasn't quite up to our quality standards.

Long story short: Not very tasty and lots of beets.

Nate was unsatisfied so we took to the streets in search of a panadería. Two pastries later, he was feeling much better! The sun set and we felt safe wandering the streets. Such is Loja.


Winnie the Pooh was dancing outside of the supermarket. So I did too.



We took it easy that night and watched Hancock with animal crackers and bubbly water.

The next day was Thursday, September 18. It was travel day. We began by getting me a fresh carrot juice from the mercado. Next stop panadería for breakfast munchies. Shoulder our heavy packs and, instead of grabbing a cab, we walk to terminal 11 de mayo for our colectivo to Vilcabamba.

We wait a couple minutes for the 4 people necessary to fill the colectivo and then we're off. I'm wedged between Nate and a woman who promptly falls asleep. We listen to the President over the radio supporting the new constitution and bounce along the road.

We had high hopes for the beautiful, relaxing Vilcabamba, but little did we know that despite the tranquil environment, posh accomodations, and gringo food, one of us would wind up in the hospital's emergency room.


The fun never ends!

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