Trickle Down Theory

(or “How Bariloche Caught the Economic Crisis Flu”)

It’s temporada alta- high tourist season - here in Bariloche. It’s during these winter months that the majority of the citizens here earn the majority of their annual income. And while one would expect to hear exclamations of joy and optimism in these early days of July, the onda on the street is whispering quite a different tune.

What is the cause of all these melancholy murmurings? From the chatter on the lurching, coughing colectivos to the contagious 4pm mate gossip. Why is it just one bad story after another? And why are all the mouths turned into a downward frown?

For Bariloche, a small Patagonian city whose economy is almost solely based on tourism, I can point my finger at two culprits (both of which I’ve been hoping to avoid here in Argentina): the economic crisis and the H1N1 (aka. Swine) flu. Or rather, the accompanying media-catalized frenzy that has consumed the world.

The CRISIS

This whole economic “crisis” has been a mystery to me from the beginning. Maybe because I was never given the opportunity to see it first hand. Just as it was gaining momentum, I hopped a flight to Panama to begin my South American country crawl. Or perhaps it’s the fact that I can’t make any sense of it. All this “invisible” money in the forms of stocks and shares, shifting hands and changing values always did seem counterintuitive to me. Or perhaps it’s the fact that all of a sudden there’s no money to be found. But where did it go?

And what do you mean there’s no money to pay the employees? And what do you mean I’m out of a job? And what do you mean half a million jobs were cut last month? Don’t you know that each of those people depend on that money to survive?

But as I’d mentioned previously, I was thousands of miles away from all the economic turmoil. What I wasn’t able to see wouldn’t be able to affect me, right?

What we sometimes forget is that we had developed a very intricate and very complex international economic system. The economy of one country will (directly or indirectly) affect the economies of all the other countries. When the United States wavers, the world rocks.

It seems that Bariloche, as previously stated, is a rather touristic city. The beautiful summer sun illuminates the Andes and the treks through the countryside are lush. The winter creates the wonderland conditions for South America’s largest ski resort. Free-spending tourists happily descend on the trendy chocolate shops and luxurious cabañas in both the winter and summer temporadas and locals are happy to oblige.

Now, when rich deep-pocketed gringos start feeling the economic strain they are quick to clutch their pennies and rock out to a perfectly acceptable stay-cation. They won’t, por ejemplo, fly down to the southern hemisphere to buy knick-knacks and flimsy souvenirs, as they would have previously.

When a city’s economic fuel runs dry, the citizens scramble to make ends meet. From the tour guides to the five-star hotel valet parking staff, from artisan sweater makers to the overpriced multilingual restobars. And when these people start skimping, then other businesses start feeling the strain: veggie stands, hardware stores, and pastelerías. To name only a few.

To make matters worse, the snow isn’t falling. We should have had a nice cover of snow on our precious Cerro Catedral by now, but it’s just not coming. Global warming?! Call it what you will, but without snow you cannot ski. The extravagant resort was going to open in June… then the first of July… Now they say July 13th… Until then, tens of thousands of people are jobless.

No tourists means no income. No tourists means Nate’s hostel wasn’t able to pay the electricity bill or any of the employees. With unhappy employees and no income, the hostel was forced to close. Nate has been out of a job for over a month. And while we are gringos with Washington Mutual bank accounts, most Argentinians live temporada to temporada. They don’t have the luxury of dipping into their savings to feed their children. Everyone’s pockets are hurting.

SWINE FLU

Now there’s something else that has been looming on the front pages of newspapers and on the headlines of the evening news. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I have buried myself in an impermeable bubble owning neither a TV nor internet. And I have only made false promises to faithfully buy the local newspaper to enhance my vocabulary and current events knowledge.

Swine flu or H1N1 or GRIPE A has swept through Bariloche. Within days every single school has closed (institutes included), all other clubs and sports have been canceled, and winter break has commenced over two weeks early. Joyful children have taken to the streets, at least those who aren’t at home sneezing into their hot lemon tea with honey. And adults are left scratching their heads wondering where their jobs went. From school bus drivers to yoga instructors; from school lunch caterers to (ahem) yours truly.

I showed up to work on Thursday morning for a pre-classes paperwork session. I was met with glum countenances and the even glummer news of our institute’s suspension of classes. And that we would only get half of July’s paycheck as a result.

That day I walked around in shock. I knew very well that the institute’s directors hadn’t had any other choice. We would have gotten a lot of flack if we were the only institute open. But why is the whole city all of a sudden in hysterics over this flu?

I don’t claim to know anything about it, but it does seem to have made the public go a little out of control. It’s a flu. True it’s a worse strain, true it can be deadly, true it is something to take seriously and educate ourselves about. But let’s not be hysterical and paranoid. Let’s remember to wash our hands and to not cough on each other. Let’s remember to get lots of rest and, above all, eat well and stay hydrated. I’m going to repeat that last part because it is something that we as a species often don’t pay attention to: EAT WELL (with plenty of veggies and variety of grains) and STAY HYDRATED (and NOT with sugary syrupy soft drinks).

With Bariloche in a standstill, everyone with or without a job is finding life a little harder. Tourists are canceling their holiday reservations to flu-ridden Bariloche by the thousands. For a city that depends mostly on its winter tourist season, it looks like it might be a hard year to come.

So where does all of this leave me? It leaves me two weeks al pedo in Bariloche, which it turns out is exactly what I needed. I will use all this new free time to cook and read everything I can find. I’ve developed the uncontrollable and inexplicable urge to devour new information in all forms. Call it an intellectual rampage if you will.

On the 18th, we leave for the Northern Hemisphere.

It's winter.

And lots of things are happening.


1. I am still teaching English.

2. I went hiking to Laguna Negra two weekends ago and have some phenomenal photos. Feast your occipital lobe on these:





3. I had a mandatory border crossing to Chile to renew my 3-month Argentinian tourist visa. We went with our neighbors and a rental car.


There was an awesome volcano.


Argentina to Chile:

Chile to Argentina:

4. Winter has come to Bariloche without warning. Snow on mountain tops. Poofy jackets. Numb extremities.

Salu2 de la Patagonia!! I promise to write more soon!!

where in the world is ali sa? and what in the world is she up to?!

i've been getting those emails. yup, those emails. the ones that begin...

"i know you're probably very busy with work, but it would be great if you can just send a one-liner to say you're ok.."

i'm ok.

really, i am. i'm keeping very very busy.

with what?! you may ask.

i teach 4 english classes, ranging from very beginner to advanced and from 10 years old to 19 years old. it's so challenging, but such a great experience. we play games and learn grammar. even tho i only officially work 3 hours a day, 4 days a week, i have to admit i'm constantly lesson planning. even when i sleep i have weird teaching dreams!

a few weeks ago, nate and i hiked to frey. we arrived for sunset and we spent the night in our tent. the views were spectacular. here are a few photos!







and we've made a few friends. nate enjoys climbing outings in the morning before work. i enjoy dancing til the wee hours of the morning. and we both enjoyed our first curanto at pablo and luz's house!




what is a curanto?! you might ask.

well...
1st. you dig a hole in the ground
2nd. you put fire and ashes into the hole
3rd. you put rocks on top of the hot ash
4th. you cover the rocks with nalca leaves (we didn't have any, so we used lettuce... didn't work quite as well!)
5th. you add meat and veggies
6th. you cover with cloth
7th. you cover with dirt
8th. you let everything cook for a few hours
9th. you remove all the layers and EAT!
10th. you may add wine and birthday cake as needed.

and i think you all should know, i have successfully crossed the slack line. and have taken 4 steps backwards.



peace and best wishes to you all! hasta la proxima!

I survived my first week of teaching...

AND I LOVE IT!

I haven't had internet in weeks... and this is what I come up with...

Changes come in all shapes, sizes, and textures as the Patagonian summer threatens to come to a close. Let’s go in chronological order, shall we?




February 8. My mom flies in to Bariloche.






What follow are active-kitchen nights,


a day trip to el Bolsón’s colorful Tuesday crafts ‘n yummies fair,



and a hop across the Chilean border.


Nate stick-shift-driving-extraordinaire Conroy took us to Villa la Angostura, Osorno, Valdivia, Villarrica, Pucón, Junin de los Andes, San Martín de los Andes and through the 7 lakes district back home.


Highlights: Fruit markets… everywhere!! Fresh seafood! Beautiful weather! Volcano! Completo!! Crafts market!! Fresh fruit juice!!

Lowlight: Not enough time!!






Thanks for coming to visit, Ma! It was great having you!!





Not too long afterwards, Becky and Olivier (do you remember them? Think back to Vilcabamba… That’s right, Ecuador!!) found their way down to Bariloche. It turned into a big cooking fest! They wowed us with their homemade lasagna noodles and introduced us to casseroles!


On my day off we took colectivo #20 to Puerto Pañuelo in search of Cerro Llao Llao. The day was warm with no wind. We hiked along the road for a bit catching shadows with our footsteps and dodging 2 and 4 wheeled vehicles. The querido path veered off right and took us with it. The forest full of thick trees and bamboo shoots kept us cool from the sun and provided some hide and seek opportunities.

From the top of the cerro we were rewarded with a stunning view of Cerro Lopez, green hills falling into crystal blue waters below, and a friendly man with a gruff voice .

They brought us gigantic organic squashes (pumpkins??) back from el Bolsón. We still haven’t finished the zapallitos or the yummy honey!!

The sad day that they left incidentally was my last day of work at the Tangoinn Downtown Hostel!! A bittersweet day. Thanks for stopping by!!! It was such a pleasure to have you here and to see you again!! Next stop Melbourne?? Bankok??

So what happened at the hostel? For starters, I found another job at an English Language Institute that promised better hours, more opportunities for creative thinking and a homey work environment. Plus, they have an apple tree and a grassy back yard. Need I say more?? Secondly, Tangoinn’s bosses and I discovered a few irreconcilable differences in opinion. And even though I get exponentially happier each day that I am not working there, I know that every experience is an opportunity to learn something new. I certainly learned a lot and am grateful for all the wonderful people I worked alongside with.

So I am turning my focus to the English Language Institute. They have given me four classes, two beginning and two relatively advanced. I’ve been spending extra long hours prepping my lesson plans and materials. I’m excited, but a little nervous… teenagers + me +The English Language = ????

Classes start on Monday.

Nate had his day off yesterday (Thursday)... did you know he's now employed??? So we hiked up to Refugio Frey armed with tenting supplies and some food... photos and stories to come!

All work and no play....

I´ve come to terms with the fact that I work 8 hours a day, 7 days a week.

I´m sure, however, that you´d rather not hear about my countless hours checking people in and out of the hostel, running up and down the stairs, answering phones and emails, and listening to the innumerable backpacker complaints. So there´s the scoopage on my very limited non-work life:

I´ve learned how to make homemade bread. And pizza.

And we still have never been out to a restaurant since moving here.

On my day off a week or so ago Nate and I went climbing at Cerro Ventana. Spectacular photos to come. (Or simply see his blog because he´s way more up-to-date than I am)

I take the colectivo to and from the center of Bariloche, with the priveledge of staring out at the most gorgeous Patagonian scenery.

We are very fortunate to have two houseguests from Seattle join us in our apartment. Ben and Lindsey have descended on Bariloche with their energy and climbing gear. It´s fun to have them, even though they keep me up way past my bedtime with their good company and hilariousness. I will pass along their blog info when I get my digital hands on it!

I took 3 steps on the slack line.

Hmmm... If I think of more, I´ll update. Until then I hope you all find yourselves in wonderful health and full of happiness! Cheers!

Che, felicidades desde Bariloche!

Have I been neglecting my blog? Yes, perhaps. Have I forgotten about you all, my lovely readers? Not in your wildest dreams.

Let me first wish you all muy felices fiestas. Here the holiday season brings me long hours at the reception desk and limited hours in the summer sun, but I’m keeping busy and happy.

The reception at the hostel is a bumpy ride of ups and downs, stresses and giggles. I meet lots of travelers and get to practice my languages. It’s a job that keeps me on my toes, but one that I know is only temporary. But the other week I started full-time. That means 8-hour shifts 6 days a week. It’s a lot. I’m sure when the paycheck comes around I’ll be glad I put in those hours, but sometimes I have to remind myself to keep a smile on. The thing I love most about working in the center of town and living on km 7.3 is being able to hitchhike to work. Haciendo dedo, I meet so many awesome people and it’s way quicker (and cheaper) than taking the colectivo. Thumbs up!

The Conroys (and Larner-Lewis) descended on Bariloche. First Terri, Nicky, Jon and Sean arrived and we moved into the lake-side apartment meant for 8. This meant awesome food creations and many hours laughing and talking. After his first flight was canceled due to Rochester snow, Mike arrived a few days later than expected, but just in time for the food and festivities!

Although I was unable to attend most day-time excursions to El Bolsón, Cerro Camapanario and circuito chico, I was able to partake in dinner preparation and feasting. Nate and I pulled out our we-had-too-much-time-on-our-hands Argentinean menu and we all took turns popping the cork on the Malbecs. Thanks to all for lending their skills in the kitchen. Side note: Mike is the steak extraordinaire!

It was great having everyone here. Too bad I was behind a reception desk for most of it, but I hope you all had a fun and learning experience. See you for your next visit! No, I mean it! We have a futon this time!!!!!!

Happy New Years! To be honest I don’t know if I have any resolutions, I’m right were I want to be doing what I want to do. Maybe I’ll resolve to have more traveling in my life. Wink wink. Nate and I have started working on our Thai. No joke.

Casa Dulce Casa.

Let’s just say that Bariloche is starting to feel a lot like home.


We’ve moved our few belongings into a spacious two-story apartment at kilometro 7 on Pioneros, we’ve befriended the local transportation system, I’ve started my job training at a hostel downtown, we frequent the verdurería down the block, and are starting to fall into the swing of things.




This is the view from our bedroom window!




The sun is hot. Very hot. Please remember, dear readers, that the days here are sunny and summery. It’s my first real December summer. No matter how much sunscreen I put on, I inevitably get burned. It’s unfortunate, but with the sky so crystal blue, who can complain?

About a week ago, we put on our hiking shoes (both of us sport sneakers with gaping holes in them) and made our way to Cerro Catedral. From the lower parking lot, we followed the signs to Frey. The sign said that it would take us 4 hours. We heard from fellow backpackers that without packs, it would take us 3 hours. Nate wanted to do it in 2 hours.




We hike. The sun scorches. The flies circle. The view takes breaths. The dusty path winds.





We pass the dead forest and look over Lago Gutierez. We’re making good time when we get to the edge of the forest. We jog and make up silly songs to pass the time.



After the 2nd hour, the path heads up. Up! The going is a little tougher, but we’re still passing people. We reach the snow line and keep moving. All of a sudden, the view opens up! It’s incredible! A serene blue lake sits within a chain of snow capped mountains. We munch pb&js as we take it all in.




Nate tries his hands (and climbing shoes) at a boulder or two.





After a brief rest and a tour of the refugio, we start heading down. We didn’t have a tent or sleeping bags, so we had to catch the last bus into down. GO!

We jog past families until my knees can take no more. Then a fast walk will suffice. We make it down in under 2 hours.



Here are some more pictures from Cerro Otto (only a few km from our house) where we spent a few hours of Nate's 24th birthday! Feliz Cumple!




In other news, after a couple of weeks of job searching, I got an offer from a hostel chain, TangoInn hostels. I started receptionist training a week ago and I love it. It’s fast-paced, energetic and sociable. Perfect! I’ll use my English, practice my Spanish, and probably learn some Hebrew through osmosis. It feels good to be working; too much idle time drives me loca. Meanwhile, I haven’t given up my relentless search for an English-teaching job.

And the Conroys and Larner-Lewis descend on Bariloche in T-3 days. Bienvenidos!

Success in Bariloche!

November 25. We left on the 12:15pm bus to Buenos Aires. That meant that we arrived the morning of the 26. It’s funny how each 20 hour bus rides gets easier to handle. Especially when there are alfajores are involved.

The taxi driver and I got into an argument on the way to the corner apartment building. Nate and I picked up the key, figured out the elevator, explored the never-been-lived-in apartment and settled in.

My Dad and Adriana arrived shortly thereafter. Bagels, cream cheese, and lox! And real Zabar’s coffee. Mmmmm… Luxurious dining.

After breakfast I explored the goodies my dad had in his suitcase for me. Oooh, interview clothes, climbing gear, peanut butter, and a whole host of awesomeness from home (thanks, ma!)

The next few days Buenos Aires were like being in a pressure cooker. Walking down the street was draining. On the third day, the sky opened up and shot down rain in amazing quantities.

The days passed and we did a few touristy things. Saw a Che movie, which taught me that the Cuban accent is terribly difficult to understand. Went shoe shopping. Explored an old theater converted into a bookstore. Walked through a street market in search of mates, tango, and super panchos. Watched Kung Fu Panda. We ate some tremendous food, drank copious amounts of fantastic wine, and talked the night away with hilarious people.

On Tuesday December 2, we said goodbye to Dad, Adriana, Virginia, and all the wonderful people we met in Buenos Aires. I wish I could thank them enough for all the kindness they showed us during our visit. Che, ¡qué bárbaro!


We had front seats on our semi-cama ride to Bariloche. Which meant that the panoramic view was our travel companion. We must have slept for 12 hours before waking up the movie, Jumper, being played three times in a row.

Wednesday, December 3 found us back in Bariloche. But as of December 1, the hostels had abandoned the temporada baja prices for the heftier temporada alta prices. Yikes. That meant that we had to leave our beloved 1004 in search of a more economical hostel. But we found the awesome Hostel la Bolsa. Fully equipt with a kitchen, grassy outdoor patio, pingpong table, and a beautiful wooden interior.

On Friday, December 5 we picked up the ABC classifieds magazine promptly at 4pm and flipped through it for apartment listings. In the cabina we called the first place and it was still available!! We arranged to see it that very afternoon.

The #50 bus took us straight to the doorstep of the yellow house with the black roof. We loved it. Two floors, not too spacious. Perfect.

Sunday, December 7 we paid the deposit. It was ours! We move in on Tuesday. Pictures to come.

Let's just say, I'm falling behind in my blogging.

Sunday November 15.

We miss the Cochamó-Puerto Montt bus by 8 minutes and are left to our own devises. Instead of hovering on the dusty street corner, we decide to walk. We shoulder our packs. Mine is the size of me and is adorned with chains for discouraging ladrones. Nate has two backpacks and the water bottles. I’m left with the tiny guitar and machete. We look pretty silly. Some car headed to Puerto Varas is bound to pass by and offer us a ride. Famous last words.

Cars don’t really drive much on Sundays I guess.

A sign announced that we were leaving Cochamó. We kept following the dirt road along the picturesque lake lined with thick trees and wise mountains proceeding over it all.

After an hour, our bags started getting heavy. The only vehicles that had passed us were rather large trucks with no room for us or our bags. They shrugged apologetically as they passed.

Our first ride of the day came from a father and son. The son had lived in Olympia, WA and the father insisted on speaking English with us. Fair enough, he’s giving us a ride, I’ll play along.

They invited us with them to some termales. We declined with a gracias and were dropped off neatly on the side of the road. We had ridden a good few kilometers and had at least passed into paved road territory. We had hardly walked another kilometer when we smiled at the next car as it pulled over. We piled our bags in the back and found that the driver was headed straight to Puerto Varas. Fantastic.

The car ended up being a cab. The driver had just dropped off a couple of German tourists in Cochamó, so the journey had been paid for; he didn’t want a cent from us.

The cab itself had 13 mirrors. We counted.

Nate napped as the driver and I small talked. Before we knew it, we were pulling into the comfortable cobble stone tourist haven of Puerto Varas. Food preparation and cleanliness was in store. Ahhhh… the comforts of modern technology…


Monday, November 16

We were going to leave at 11am for Puerto Montt to meet Daniel. It swiftly turned into 2pm. We jumped out of the combi right after the retorno and crossed the at least 6 lanes of traffic to the Esso Station.

Daniel pulled up, we threw our bags in the trunk and hopped inside. Daniel just had to check one thing… the papers for the car. Without them we would not be allowed across the border. They hafta be here somewhere… right?

We pull over and search the car. Nada. Where could they be? Daniel decides that it could be in Cochamó, so we start driving. Two hours of NPR later, we arrive in the little town. We search for the papers. Nada.

It starts looking like we won’t be able to cross the border. As we begin the drive back to Puerto Montt we pick up an officer of some sorts. He tells us without those papers we have no chance of crossing. And all the offices are closed because of the general strike. Great. Just our luck.


So we take the opportunity to pull over and start stacking the contents of the Land Rover on the side of the road. Suddenly Daniel puts on a grin and holds something triumphantly in the air. The papers!



Ok. It was about 7pm. The border closed at 9pm. There was about two hours left to drive. LET’S GO!

We dropped the officer off in Ensenada and took all the back roads to the border. The unpaved roads. The secret roads. Wahooo!


We flew. We absolutely HAD to cross the border. After all we had gone through that day, they HAD to let us across. It wouldn’t be the first time I argued my way across a border… and probably not the last either.


We arrived. We passed through. It got dark as we drove into Chile. Steak and gnocchi dinner. Hostel and sleep.

Tuesday November 17.

We got beds in 1004. Home again! Translated our resumes into Spanish.

November 18-24


Can’t say that these days were particularly exciting. A lot of resume printing and distributing, apartment searching, steak-cooking, wine-drinking, hostel lounging, and mountain gazing.



I’d like to bring to your attention a few notable events:

November 20. We climbed Cerro Catedral. We took a bus out of the city to the mega ski complex and then climbed up the ski trails following the teleférico. At points it was a pretty rough climb. Nate convinced me to go beyond the teleférico lodge, through the snow, to the tippy top of the mountain. But whoa was it worth it! Here are some pictures.





November 23. We rented bicycles to ride the circuito chico. Stunning views, colonia suiza, well-oiled bikes, steep hills, and alfajores! These pictures just might blow you away.





November 25. We jump on a bus to Buenos Aires.