Tuesday, July 6, 2010

transitions

Perhaps you’re wondering why I haven’t written anything recently. Perhaps you haven’t even notice my virtual absence. Perhaps you, too, find yourself in a moment of transition.

Long before the technology existed that allowed us to free ourselves from the confining parameters of nature, seasons, weather, and moon cycles... people depended greatly on the natural breathing of the Earth. Long before the office-home-office-home-office routine was established, seasons had tangible consequences and deadlines were set and enforced by the rise and fall of the sun. Long before igadgets, people could tell you what phase the moon was in at any moment (without consulting google). In an age where we try our darndest to ignore, conquer and isolate ourselves from nature, I feel an urge to turn right around and embrace it.

I hear so many complaints about nature. Either it’s too hot, or too cold, or too cloudy, or too sunny, or ohmanit’srainingagain. We build umbrellas, tunnels, cars, roofs, fortresses. We run with our heads down, cursing whatever season we’re in, because water will ruin our hairstyle or our socks will get wet or or or... nothing at all; we just can’t get enough of complaining.

But we have a choice in life. We can complain, furrow our brows, tense up our shoulders, cry, scream, punch a pillow... or we can accept it for what it is and enjoy it. How long has it been since you bundled up in good water-proof boots and a poncho and walked in the rain? Listen to the drops tipity-tap on your eyelashes. Squish your way through mud and splash in puddles. Watch as your breath becomes transparent and wonder: how the heck does that happen? Sure you’ll get wet, but it’s water, and it dries! And instead of scowling and moaning about the limitations of weather, love it and live it. Weather is going to act how it wants, we have to stop trying to control it with negative emotions. And who knows, maybe some who cares about you will have a steaming mug of hot chocolate waiting for you upon your return.

I have never been at the mercy of weather like I have in Patagonia. Wind so strong that it nearly picks you up and carries you from the top of Cerro Otto or fills your flapping tent with sand in Jaramillo. Rain that floods Barrio Las Victorias and leaves cars stranded in road-side ditches. Snow that blocks mountainous border crossings and makes-or-breaks the annual economy of tourist-dependent Bariloche.

We are entering in Winter. Everyone’s excited.

Winter is Bariloche’s big season. Home to famous Cerro Catedral, the city revolves around ski-tourism. Everyone sits, fingers permanently crossed, and waits for the snow to fall. Ojalá que haya nieve este año! When there’s snow, the tourists come. When the tourists come, the jobs appear. When the jobs appear, money circulates and there’s less worry about making ends meet this month.

This is the first place I’ve lived that works this way. It’s a completely different rhythm. Most people don’t have a steady job throughout the year. Most people work the seasons. The big ones being: winter and summer. It was hard to wrap my head around it at first because summer and winter are when most other people in the world are vacationing. Honey, let’s go to Cancun this year. Or Italy, or Thailand, or... Summer and Winter were relaxing seasons. Take a plane somewhere and be on vacation.

But here in Bariloche that’s when people work. And work hard! Someone has to receive you at your hotel reception desk. Someone clears your plates at the end of a restaurant meal. Someone drives your taxi. Long long long hours. And not a single day off. For three months.

I’ve been in Bariloche for over a year and a half now. And I think I’ve experienced two different Bariloches during my time here. The first year I was the gringa living abroad. I was getting used to the Argentine accent and slang. I was living in a relatively comfortable house. Eating very very well. Teaching English. Living the ex-pat life of comfort in an exotic place.

This year is different. This year I’m living in a half-finished house at the edge of town with six Argentine guys. Machismo so thick you could stick a peg in it and hang up your gaucho hat. I make just enough to pay rent and put food on the plate. At the end of the month I can count the number of pesos I have on one hand. I’m learning about local agriculture and making my own food. I try my best to eat with the seasons and make everything fresh and from scratch. And there’s been one new development... I have been offered a winter-dependent job.

After a few weeks of walking around downtown and the luxurious ski resort, handing out resumes, and handling questions about work papers, I have accepted a job as waitress at an upscale restaurant at the ski resort. I am super psyched. It'll be a great opportunity to experience the real Bariloche from the eyes of a local. Along with the hourlong commute, the hours are long, but the pay is good. The season hasn't officially started yet, so restaurant movement is slow. But the snow is falling and everyone calculates this weekend as the green light for tourism.

Update to come!

Fingers crossed for snow!