I cheated.

But I don’t regret it. To be honest, I don’t regret much of anything. It had to be done; I didn’t have any other feasible option.

I loaded my bike in the back of an empty vegetable truck and rode in motorized luxury to Zapala. Yes, I admit it.

It was a beautiful journey. I would have liked to bike it. We first climbed the famous Rahue uphill (all gravel) which offered some pretty spectacular views, we coasted into a valley, we climbed the second long uphill, we coasted into a valley, we climbed the third epic uphill, passed a beautiful saltwater lagoon, and pulled into the dusty desert city of Zapala. All of that would have been a dream to do on bike… perhaps in summer. Winter is quickly descending on Patagonia. It’s getting cold. I can’t just pitch my tent wherever I feel like it. And sometimes there are long expansive deserted distances between anything at all. I can’t risk it. So I cheated. I hitchhiked.

But I’m over it. There will be plenty of kilometers to bike in the warmer northern roads. And honestly I’m glad to be here.

That being said. I like Zapala.

I like Zapala the way I like Comodoro Rivadavia. The key? Arrive with low expectations.

I had heard nothing good about Zapala. I was told of the infuriating all encompassing wind. The kind of wind that violently shakes houses, mercilessly snaps trees, and keeps inhabitants locked inside and staring at the tremendous dust storms. I was told it was a very ugly city. I was told to flat out avoid it.

But everyday I like it more. I think it’s the people.

I’ve been drifting from the city to the countryside and back again. And I feel very fortunate to have friends in both places to help me out.

Here in the city, I’ve been staying in a 5-star luxury mansion with Susana, Quique, and their nephew Matias. Dinners are always delicious and generous. They let me come and go as I please. And they don’t seem to mind that I’ve been here for almost a week.

In the countryside, Veronica and her family have a working estancia with cows, sheep, horses, rams, bulls… They have thrown me headfirst into their activities, at my request. I have no idea what I’m doing. I was not raised on a farm. Sometimes I feel so over my head, that I start flailing my arms in panic. But I’m learning and learning by doing, which for me is the best kind of learning. First you look like an idiot, but then you leave with your brain overflowing with knowledge. And I don’t really mind looking like an idiot.

Veronica also let me crash one of her English classes. I forget sometimes how much I enjoy teaching. There I was bouncing around the classroom, gesturing wildly and frantically getting the students to overcome their fears of speaking. Have I mentioned that I have no problem looking like an idiot? And then I was offered a subbing gig for three days when I come back from Neuquén. Horray for work!

Yes, the adventures continue.

I feel at peace. I feel calm. I have no hurry. I have developing philosophies on my mind and developing calluses on my hands. I’m excited about what I’m doing.

I want to give a great big thanks to Adriana. I am in debt to her and her wonderful contacts that have made this pit stop extra special.