apple trees, a dusty town, and reflective philosophizing

Magic. That’s how I define the moment of bliss that comes from sitting in the branches of a wild apple tree, finger tips mere centimeters from a bright yellow orb, sun sending its blessing and spreading its joy, and heart open to the sheer beauty of the world exactly as it is. There is a love, fully directed towards all life’s manifestations, that radiates from the first bite, when teeth meet apple. Learning to identify Mother Earth’s edible gifts, because they are everywhere, little packets of nutrition and succulence, is a natural and socially responsible tool. And, in our city/work/money/buybuybuy mentalities, sometimes we forget that food originates from the seed of nature‘s womb, not from a sterile white laboratory. We lose the wisdom and patience of our great grandparents and chose convenience and comfort over richness and quality. When we slow down, pick a fruit, and take a moment to enjoy life’s gifts, living becomes a lot fuller, a lot more colorful, and a lot more worth living.

The road from Pilolil to Rahue may wind up and down, sideways and backwards, around and around, but it always stays true to River Aluminé. On a beautiful day, the countryside glows and the water shimmers and sometimes a girl on a rainbow bike takes it in with an open heart and a deep sigh.

The gravel road shakes and shutters the bike. The gashes in the road run like grooves in a saw blade. The going is slow, washboard style, but I’m in no hurry. In fact, just to stick out my tongue at time, to show time that I could give two beans about its bullying, I stop and harvest prickly rose hips until my fingertips can’t take it anymore. My idea is to sell them… if they sell, great, if they don’t sell, I’ll give them away. The main idea is to enjoy spending time, eyes squinting into the sun, breeze in my hair, fingers to the pricklies.

Two pickups stopped, unsolicited, both offering me rides. I graciously declined both. The day was brilliant and my legs needed the exercise from three days of bike neglect. One gentlemen stopped to talk as I was bent picking up rosehips that had planned an escape mission from the bag I had non-chalantly tied onto the elastic bungees of my bike. He told me of apple trees a few kilometers ahead. Enthusiastic, I kept my eyes peeled until I saw them. It’s late for apple-season, so there weren’t many left. I climbed trees, plucked apples, munched appreciatively while looking out from the rib cage of the branches breathing life into the afternoon.

It was 4:30pm when I reached Rahue, a junction where gravel meets pavement and where a little girl brought me hot water for an afternoon mate. I decided to spend the night in Rahue instead of continuing the 16 km to Aluminé. I was tired and the sun sets around 6pm these days.

Aida, a landmark woman, lives at these crossroads and has the opportunity to often help the stranded traveler. I am no exception. I pitched my tent beneath her apple trees. She invited me inside, gave me tea and homemade jam, let me cook my rice and mushrooms, and talktalktalked! She is a firecracker, doing a million and a half things at once.

That night was cold. A hefty frost lay on the ground the next morning.

That day brought me to Aluminé and to the house of Viviana. Viviana is a no-nonsense woman who raised five children and teaches English. She seems rough around the edges, but is a sweet heart. She let me stay in a storage room smelling of freshly made homemade cheese, with a bed, and a woodburning stove. After four nights on the road, I was overwhelmed with luxury. There was electricity, a washing machine, internet, bathroom and kitchen access, pizza, and direct TV. I felt like a million pesos.

For the next few days, I was a lounging bum. I didn’t do any hiking, I didn’t ride my bike, I didn’t go off and have adventures. I took a break. I walked in circles around the little town, made friends with helpful locals, drank mate by the river, but mainly just flat-out chilled. I felt a little guilty for not having done much of anything, but it felt right. I needed a little comfort.

Thanks to Viviana, Jorge, and Juan! For letting me stay with them, treating me like I belonged there (not like a guest), sharing conversations and episodes of Law and Order, and letting me bum around their house.