El Cajon Del Azul

There is a refugio nestled in the rolling hills just a 3 hour hike from El Bolson, Argentina. This moderately-sized lodge and tourist hub is run by Atilio, a Buenos Aires-born trilingual no-nonsense kind of guy. It was upon this modest refugio that 5 weary hikers descended one Saturday evening.

It started with a 1pm departure from Bariloche in the olla, a painted motorhome owned by a couple of friends. Kris, Maxi, Caro, Jeru and Ali (that’s me) took off and slowly made our way south on Route 40. I slept the entire way.

Stowing the motor home at el polaco’s, we shouldered our packs and set off. With my tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, a few clothes, and food I had by far the largest backpack. But stubbornly declined help carrying my stuff. If I wanted to bring that stuff, it was my responsibility to cart it over the river and through the woods. Or no?

Down up down up over a river or two, stop click photo, down down up up. Past the burnt house, Kris, Maxi and Jeru stopped for a banana while Caro and I carried on. The water was a spectacular color of turquoise as we looked down into the knee-shaking crevasses. I don’t think the photos do it justice.

As we reached the outer gate, a handful of hares darted across a pasture. The horse brayed us a welcome and we approached the house. Almost immediately I noticed the garden and green house! Garden and green house! Horray!

Atilio came outside to greet us and offered us the customary welcome mate. We received it warmly. I took a look around at the spacious common area. Wood mostly. With sheep skin seat covers. When I asked about a compost, he showed me two buckets, one for compost and one for chicken food, and explained the difference. Chickens sheep horses compost garden green house?! Sigh. I had found paradise.

Our friends had shown up and I went outside to pitch my tent. A small stream ran parallel to the camping area. A large shed showed evidence of woodwork and animal skins. I took a chance and asked if I could take a twirl around the garden. He gave me a personal tour. Rhubarb (from which he broke off a piece for me to gnaw on), several types of lettuce, tomato, squash, and countless other veggies. I knew this was a man whose brain I just had to pick.

I waited for the right moment though. After all there was a large sign in the main room with the words “ANTES DE PREGUNTAR, PIENSE!” (BEFORE YOU ASK, THINK!) so I knew I had to chose my words carefully.

I got my chance over dinner, we invited him to sit with us and dived into a conversation. What a life he’s had! And with the last 29 years working at the refugio! He speaks with quiet authority on many topics. I found him rather inspirational.

That night instead of sleeping in my tent, we slept around the campfire under a blanket of jaw-dropping stars. I think I stared into the fire for a few hours, not uttering a single word, just soaking in the energy of the hissing wood and the peace of life around me.

We got lost on a day-hike the next day. I could have explored caves forever, but even the summer days come to a close and we had many kilometers to cover. After some of the most delicious bread ever, we said our farewells to Atilio and settled the bill. Off we went, quicklier than the previous day. I felt strong and healthy.

Towards the end of the hike, I started distancing myself from the group. I knew that the worst of the hike was yet to come, so I forged ahead dominating the subida and arriving back at el polaco’s with time to rest before the others got there.

I bought the first beer. We sat on the grass eating soggy snacks and airing out our feet. Two more beers later, we were back on the road.

Besides having the get out and push the motor home up a hill and picking up a hitchhiker, the journey was uneventful and I fell asleep until we were rushing past los cohiues. As I said goodbyes to my friends and walked home, I smiled at everything I had seen, learned, and experienced. Life is magical.